Essential #2: Walking a Perfect Circle

Essential #2: Walking a Perfect Circle

by | Jan 1, 2019 | Reining

In a previous article, I covered Reining Essential 1 (giving his face). When your horse is responding well to that, begin work on Essential #2, walking a perfect circle. This one sounds easy, but it isn’t! Once you achieve it, you’ll understand the basics of maintaining control over your horse’s entire body.

Perfect circles will serve as the foundation for the circles and spins you’ll see in all patterns. 

In perfecting your circles, you’ll also discover and overcome your horse’s magnets—that is, the things (like the barn or the trailer or his buddies) that draw him from the circle you have in mind. 

The Goal 

A perfect circle is a symmetric circle, meaning precisely round as opposed to oval, oblong, or egg-shaped. As your horse travels this circle, he should stay soft in your hand and flexed slightly to the inside through his neck and body, with no deviations in speed. His hind feet should follow in the tracks of his front. He should be equally soft and responsive in either direction. 

TIP: Work on freshly groomed ground so you can easily see your horse’s tracks. 

Walk your horse forward, using both your legs in neutral position to move him in an energetic rhythm. Keeping both your legs active, and with your hands 12 to 24 inches apart, apply light, direct-rein pressure on what will become the inside rein to tip his nose to the inside of the circle (so that you can just see the corner of his inside eye) and begin the circle.

Use leg pressure and the outside rein as needed, to keep the circle round. Horses tend to be asymmetrical; going to their “hollow” or right side (clockwise), they tend to bend too much.  Going to their “stiff” or left side (counterclockwise), they tend to resist bending. You’ll need to compensate for this and help them become ambidextrous. 

Dealing With the Hollow Side 

Circling to the right, your horse may tend to tip his nose in easier and bend too much, cocking his rear end into the circle while the circle gradually enlarges (see Diagram 4).  

 

To correct this, apply your inside (right) leg behind neutral position to push his rear end back out onto the track of the circle. At the same time, keep enough tension on the outside (left) rein to keep his shoulder from drifting out to the left, straightening out his neck a bit so you can just see the corner of his right eye. Apply your left leg at the cinch; that will also help to keep that shoulder from drifting.(see photo 1) 

Dealing With the Stiff Side 

Circling to the left, your horse may tend to resist bending, keeping his body relatively straighter and resisting bringing his nose to the inside (see Diagram 3). Instead, he’ll lead with his inside (left) shoulder, letting his hind end drift out while the forehand somewhat collapses the circle. 

To correct this, pick up his inside shoulder with a move I call “key in the ignition.” (See photo 2) Bring your inside (left) rein hand close to his neck, then twist your wrist as if you’re turning a key in an ignition, so that your palm comes to face upward, making your pinkie finger closest to the neck (do not bring your hand over the neck or withers, a common error). This tightens the rein slightly while giving a “lifting” motion that helps lift the shoulder on that side. 

At the same time, apply pressure with your inside (left) leg in neutral position (that is, directly behind the cinch) to encourage more bend, while pulling your outside (right) rein slightly outward to the right, moving his shoulders out to the right to help stop the forehand from collapsing in on the circle. If necessary, use your right leg a few inches behind neutral position to keep his hindquarters from moving out. 

As you strive to keep him aligned to the arc of the circle in either direction, remember also to keep him giving his face (that is, staying soft to your hand) and using both your legs to keep him moving forward at a steady pace. 

LET US KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS 

Control Leaving the Box and Rating Down the Fence

Control Leaving the Box and Rating Down the Fence

by | Nov 20, 2018 | Boxing / Down the Fence

In the last boxing/fence article, I talked about control being the most important ingredient in the cow work. I covered the purpose of boxing and preparing to start down the fence. In this article, I’ll cover the transition from boxing to starting down the fence and rate.

Correctly gauging the length of time spent boxing will affect the cow’s speed down the fence. The rider should move the cow back and forth across the end of the pen enough to make it respectful and to take some of its air out.

It’s a judgment call to know when you’ve worked it enough, so you don’t get outrun, but not so much that you decrease the degree of difficulty to the point that you won’t score well.

Most of the time, the cow will tell the rider when it’s ready to go down the fence. It will be more accepting of your control, paying attention to the horse and not moving quite as fast.

Those signs are good if you can get them, but sometimes, the rider has to realize that the situation is just not going to get any better. Maybe the cow keeps bumping into the fence getting tired and more numb, or just running back and forth. If you feel that this is as good as it gets, your only option is to just go and hope it all works out.

You can always ask a knowledgeable trainer tell you when to go, if you’re uncertain. Strategy is another factor in this decision. Is your strategy for a high degree of difficulty and a big score like for a finals run? Or are you trying to get to the finals? I would always prefer my Non Pros take a few more turns in the boxing, rather than too few.       

One of the most critical times in the run is the transition from boxing to going down the fence. Your ability to position yourself and your horse to drive the cow from the box and line it out down the fence, so you never lose working advantage, is the key to setting up a great run. It’s harder to get scored on a run that isn’t seamlessly put together. So, be sure to spend enough time on this at home.     

If you leave the short end late, you won’t be able to catch the cow in time to get it turned, or you’ll have to run so fast to catch it that you end up going by it. It can also come off the fence if you’re not in position. 

Conversely, leaving the boxing end and getting ahead too soon results in turning the cow too soon, which is a penalty.

That first burst of speed down the arena fence can be intoxicating to horses. They can anticipate and want to charge down the fence like they’re shot out of a cannon. Knowing that, I spend lots of time teaching my horses to get into the position to control the cow, and to stay there without argument until I decide to go by.

We call it rating. They learn their place on the cow from lots of repetition. Then, easing by when you ask. If they take hold and try to speed up, I’ll just stop straight, then lope after the cow again and hold the position until it’s a non-event.  This event is called REINED cow horse meaning we should be able to rein them at any time, and have them respond well.

It’s all the control in between the turns that’s the real challenge. I spend lots of time transitioning from the short end and rating with the cow down the long side. I do this over and over at home until the horse doesn’t mind being directed. That’s one of the ways to make them stay correct and disciplined.

Riding smart contributes to the longevity of the horse. How in control you are of the horse and the cow directly affects how long they’ll stay honest in the show pen, as well as your score. Taking the time at home to keep them correct and honest really pays off.”   

Then, when show time comes, if the horse is prepared and if the rider reads the cow correctly, the stage is set for a spectacular trip down the fence. 

*****

Five Things to Remember:

  • Always watch the cow! Never take your eyes off it, especially in the fence turns. Things happen very fast
  • Sit up straight – Don’t lean. When you lean, the horse does too
  • Be sure you leave the box with the cow in the right position.
  • Maintain control of your horse and the cow at all times
  • Strive to have very little separation (ie distance) between your horse and the cow

LET US KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS 

Troubleshooting Softening the Face – Reining Essential #1, part 2

Troubleshooting Softening the Face – Reining Essential #1, part 2

by | Oct 23, 2018 | Reining

This is a continuation of the article I wrote called Reining Essential #1 Giving the Face. I’m going to do a quick recap and then get right into “troubleshooting” softening the face.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Reining Essential #1- Recap

1. Giving the Face

“Giving the face” means softening in the jaw and flexing willingly at the poll in response to light pressure on both reins, or flexing to the left or right in response to left- or right-rein pressure. It’s the single most important thing to teach your horse.

Reining Essential #1-Troubleshooting

With each thing that we teach a horse, many responses will come up. Some of those are good and some not so desirable. I’ll include a Troubleshooting section for each of these. I will also do a “myth busting” segment for each of the Essentials.

Troubleshooting. Common problems in getting your horse to give his face, and how to fix them:

  • Overbridling (chin to chest). Fix by using more leg and less rein, being sure to release when your horse softens. Also, if need be use distinct upward tugs on the reins to make it uncomfortable when he puts his head beyond the vertical or too low, returning to soft hands as soon as he corrects his positioning. 

  • Underbridling (not flexing enough, his neck may be raised and braced against your hands). Fix by bumping incrementally harder with your legs in neutral position while holding with your hands as assertively as need be until there is the slightest indication of giving, then release immediately, then repeat.

  •  Never fully softening the jaw (you’ll feel him still pulling on you even though he’s dropped his head). Fix by tugging the reins off the beat of his motion. Be sure not to tug predictably, or he may simply learn to move his head from side to side without truly giving/softening. Also, make sure the slack is out of the reins before you tug, so you’re never jerking.

  • Wiggling (his rear end drifts off to one side or the other instead of driving up underneath his body). Fix by riding assertively, bumping simultaneously with both legs in neutral position or just behind the cinch. Push him up into the “wall” of your hands to straighten him out.​​​​

Softening your horse is an ongoing and continual process. It will never end, and it’s the first thing that goes, if we’re not paying attention! 

One percent improvement a day is a great goal.

LET US KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS 

Tips on Cattle Characteristics

Tips on Cattle Characteristics

by | Oct 9, 2018 | Understanding Cattle

Barb and I have spoken a lot about reading cattle and watching them settle, etc. However, in the reined cowhorse event, we don’t get to choose our cow. So our surveillance techniques become more general, trend seeking vs studying individual cattle traits.

I’d rather see Cowface #2 come through the gate for me as it ‘s lowered head and floppy ears make it seem a more relaxed, workable sort. Cowface #1 looks a bit too bright and feely…..but they both could be fibbing!​​​​​​​

The difference in how we respond to their reactions to us, can be the difference in whether we make a bad cow good or a good cow bad!

Be sure to watch the cattle before your turn, for general trends in the cattle that day. 

Most groups of cattle contracted for a show, are similar breed, age, condition and sex. It’s helpful to know if they’ve been out in the mountains, in which case, they haven’t been disturbed by many horses. They might be a bit more flighty, and in much better condition to run longer and harder, than ones kept in a feedlot. Feedlot cattle might be duller, having been bumping into each other all the time, and being ridden through regularly. The mountain cattle probably have a bigger bubble than their feedlot friends.

By bubble, I mean, how big the area around a cow is before they feel compelled to react to a horse’s intrusion. 

A wilder cow, with a bigger bubble, will respond to a horse that’s further away, in a quicker more reactive manner. If you misread a cow’s bubble, by stepping up too quickly, and create a bad reaction (ie their head and tail come up, ears are no longer drooping and relaxed, and they squirt across the arena), don’t panic. Just take your foot off the accelerator pedal, back off a step and recalibrate. Slow everything down, and approach in a softer, slower manner. Be prepared to play defense on these kind.

Every cow is an individual with their very own personality, so it’s essential to become a “student of the cow”. A good cattleman doesn’t see a large group of black cattle that all look the same. They see many cattle with unique characteristics, and each will respond differently to a horse.

There’s a really big difference between working steers and heifers too. Steers tend to be more docile, get fat more easily, tire more quickly, and might quit you when they do tire. Heifers, on the other hand, tend to be quicker, faster and get on the prod (mad) more readily. But, I’ve seen steers that could run all day, and heifers that I could outrun on foot….so there you go!

Another character trait most cattle have, is if they get away with something once, they will try the same thing again, usually in the same place. So, if they slip by you, or beat you in a turn, be prepared for them to try it again. If they set up quick when you’re boxing (in other words, stop and change directions before you actually get in position), then be prepared for them to turn on the fence, before you actually get them headed.

So, let the open class be the test pilots. Watch them go. It might make you nervous to see how fast they go, or to think of all the things that might go wrong. But, knowledge is power. The more familiar you are with what you’ll be working, the better your game plan will be, and the calmer your nerves will become. Having a Plan A, B and C, and the ability to shift from one to another seamlessly, is a big confidence booster.

Those riders who put in the extra time and effort to study cattle for sure have a little leg up on those that don’t.

LET US KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS 

Tip 1: Control in the Boxing Part of the Fence Work

Tip 1: Control in the Boxing Part of the Fence Work

by | Sep 11, 2018 | Boxing / Down the Fence

The key to consistent success in the fence (and the boxing) part of a reined cow horse run is in attaining and maintaining control of the cow

How well you can read the cow, the situation and the better you are at getting your horse to the right place at the right time, will determine how well you will control your cow and your run.

You have to be able to interpret and respond to the cow immediately. 

A lot of times, people can see what needs to happen, but they can’t get their horse to the place where they need to be.

Taking control has to begin when the cow first enters the arena. This is also the time the rider assesses the cow, teaches it to respect the horse, and works it enough to insure just the right speed down the fence.

To take control, the rider must watch carefully and respond instantly to the cow. For example, cattle that have been in a feed lot, often have become accustomed to riders and they’re dull about responding to horses. They have a smaller “bubble”. Others that have been out in the hills, may be pretty wild and a lot more fit. Watch to see what kind of physical shape they’re in – whether they will tire quickly.  In general, these are trends, one see early in the show, but remember every cow is an individual.

The other part of the formula rests with the horse. Be sure your horse is responding to you in a way that will enhance performance, before you enter the arena. He should be soft in the bridle, moving off your legs, been adequately loped and in a mental frame to walk into the pen and go to work.

When the gate swings open and the cow enters the pen, the rider must make instantaneous assessments.

If a cow has been bouncing off the walls in the holding pen, and then comes out into the arena with its tail up over its back, pull down your stampede string, because you’re probably going to go fast. That type have a bigger “bubble”, so you won’t want to get too close. It will be harder to get that cow to honor your horse.  You’ll have to move quickly and aggressively to block it, while being somewhat defensive – staying inside the cow and ready to move your “line of scrimmage” back.  I might also make some noise to get its attention.

Sometimes cattle come out with heads pretty low, like they’re looking for a way out – nosing the fence as they go along. This type cow might try to run under a horse’s neck – it’s crafty, maybe pushy. Working that one might be a body-blocking affair.  They are generally numb cattle and less aware of you. To work them successfully, you might have to get right in their faces (head them) and make some noise. They require a more offensive plan, as they’re not easily intimidated.

The ideal draw is the cow that comes out, sees the horse and stops, acknowledging it, perhaps curious, then moves away. With this type cow, when you make a move, you get a response.  That’s the kind you want.The goal is to get the cow’s attention and respect – whatever it takes.

In NRCHA competition, there are two kinds of cow that will cause a judge to call for a replacement.  Judges will award a new cow if it won’t move enough in response to the horse, or, if it won’t honor your horse. In both cases, you must be in the correct position, and doing everything possible to work your cow, in order for the judge to award a new one.

Since the boxing sets the stage for the rest of the run, be sure your horse gets dialed into the cow – moving the way you want him to move and feeling the way you want him to feel – before you go down the fence. If your horse is leaning or dropping a shoulder or not reading your cow, not stopping on his rear, your only opportunity to fix it is before you start down the fence.

Boxing is also the time to establish authority over the cow. You should train the cow to honor the horse.  You do that by getting its attention if it’s numb, and getting it worked down if its wild. In general, your goal is to teach it to stop when you get into position whether you’re just boxing or getting ready to go down the fence.

(more next time on leaving the corner and rating the cow, stay tuned!!)​​​​​​​

LET US KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS