Most of you have heard by now that we have lost a great cowboy, trainer, dear friend and one of the finest horsemen ever. Doug Williamson passed after a long battle with cancer. He will be missed by many but forgotten by none. My 2 favorite quotes from Doug are, “When a horse’s head is high (well above its withers) all its brain dribble out and he can’t think properly!” and “You should never apply more pressure to the bit than it takes to back your horse up.”
I think of Doug every time I quote him and whenever I do the exercise I’m going to share with you below. I smile now thinking all the awesome horses he’s riding out in that great pasture in the sky!!
Circle-Stop-Sweep I’d like to share one of Doug’s favorite exercises to do on a horse with you. Doug used to say, “The circle-stop-sweep, warms up my horse’s body for any situation. It doesn’t matter if I’m reining, cutting or doing fence work. The drill allows my horse to get his physical and mental game tuned in.” Doug used to begin the drill by loping in easy, relaxed circles, coming to an easy stop, then backing a couple of steps, loading up the horse’s hindquarters for action. With the horse’s feet squarely up under his center of gravity, the horse is ready to sweep, or turn move out in any direction with propulsion. The main cue that Doug would give was just enough direct rein to barely see the eye in the direction the horse was traveling, and using the indirect (outside) rein towards the opposite hip to prevent too much bend. The neck rein laid against the middle of the horse’s neck in line with the opposite hip helps keep the rear end engaged and keeping the front end from getting too much bend. The “sweep” is an approximately 180* turn before loping off on the other lead.
It’s a great exercise for all purposes, but here’s how it works for the cow work. Loping an easy circle, then stop, loading up on the hindquarters and a 180* turn towards the outside (where the cow would be), teaches him to think stop and back up before making any turn. A 180* turn is all we ever need on a cow. It’s important for the rider to balance without squeezing his knees or clamping his legs, as that will cause the horse to go forward towards the cow. That causes the horse to roll up into the cow and get behind it, losing control and chasing it across the arena. Doug also said, “It’s important to keep some weight in the outside stirrup so as not to lose your balance.” He might use the direct rein to hint at directionality, but once the turn is initiated he likes to let the horse have the cow. Because the repetition of this exercise, the horse thinks stop and rock straight back before turning on a cow too and will automatically load up his outside hind leg in preparation for the turn. This puts a slight arc in its body with nose and butt being slightly closer to the cow and rib and shoulder slightly moved away. Without that slight arc, the horse is likely to turn on its inside hind leg, which tends to push the horse towards the cow instead of exiting parallel to it. “When the cow takes him, my bridle reins are loose and the cow draws him through the turn.”
This is how the circle- stop- sweep helps Doug with the cow work. It reminds him to always back up before turning and he’s got to back up straight with the butt towards the direction he’s going to turn. If all goes as planned, the horse will be pushing off on the outside hind leg. He is physically prepared to go with and stay with the cow.
We love you Doug and you’ll be sorely missed by all!
Overcome your horse’s natural asymmetry so you can—finally!—ride perfect circles and straight lines.
Does your horse seem to have a “good” and a “bad” side? Is he somehow easier to ride in one direction than the other? Is it hard for you to make your circles to the left match your circles to the right—or for any of your circles to be perfectly round? This is similar to our being right or left handed. Here. We’re looking to help him become ambidextrous.
The effect you’re noticing is caused by his natural asymmetry. In other words, one side of his body is not exactly like the other, and so doesn’t move and respond in exactly the same way (just like ours). That means he’s stiff and resistant to bending in one direction (his stiff side), while he tends to bend too much in the other (his “hollow” side).
As if this asymmetry weren’t enough to deal with, “magnets” also pull your horse out of alignment when you’re trying to ride precisely. Magnets are things (such as the barn or a pasture full of buddies) that attract your horse’s attention, causing his body to bulge or drift that way.
The Enemies of ‘Going Straight’
Getting and keeping your horse straight—whether he’s on a straight line or not—is a fundamental goal of riding. This concept can seem confusing, so let’s consider some definitions.
Straight: Your horse travels with his hind feet in the tracks of his front, with his neck and spine aligned to allow this. This means he’ll be straight on a straight line and curved on a curving line, or circle. (Trouble is, his asymmetry and the pull of magnets make it challenging for you to keep him that way.)
Hollow: Your horse bends or softens excessively in one direction. About 80% of horses tend to be hollow when traveling to their right. When you lope your horse to his hollow side, it will feel as if he’s bending much more than the arc of the circle requires. That’s because his natural asymmetry is causing his hindquarters to drift to the inside of the circle to avoid carrying weight, which in turn causes his neck, shoulders, and ribcage to drift to the outside of the circle.
Stiff: Your horse resists bending or softening in one direction. Horses tend to be stiff when traveling to their left. When you lope your horse to his stiff side, he resists bending on the arc of the circle. His nose won’t be properly tipped to the inside, nor will he have a soft bend from poll to dock.
He’ll feel as if he’s always collapsing/cutting in on his circles when going this direction. You’ll usually feel more comfortable loping on this lead (to his stiff side), as he’s tracking straighter and will usually stop better, but that doesn’t make it his better side. It’s as challenging to supple the stiff side as it is to straighten the hollow side.
Magnet: Anything that attracts your horse’s attention and therefore draws him to it. A horse’s body goes where he looks, and he looks where his mind is. Predictably, this is the gate, the barn, the trailer, where his buddies are, and so on. Magnets are what make straight lines (such as rundowns in a reining pattern) and symmetric circles problematic. To compensate for these magnets and to deal with and overcome your horse’s asymmetry, you must learn to…
Ride a Perfect Circle
This sounds easy, especially at a walk, but it isn’t! Once you master perfect circles in both directions, though, you’ll have evened out your horse’s asymmetry and achieved control over his entire body—essential for any competitive event, as well as for safe, pleasurable trail riding. You’ll also have learned how to overcome the effects of your horse’s favorite magnets.
Before you begin this exercise, turn your horse out and/or work him from the ground to get the “fresh” out and dial his attention in to you. Outfit him in a plain snaffle bit (for clear, comfortable communication) and his usual saddle. Work in an enclosed area with good footing. If possible, work on freshly groomed ground so you can easily see your horse’s tracks, and/or enlist a friend to help you gauge the symmetry of your circles.
The goal. A perfect circle is precisely round as opposed to oval, oblong, cigar or egg-shaped. As your horse travels this circle, he should stay soft in your hand and flexed slightly to the inside through his neck and body. He should walk in an even, four-beat rhythm, at a steady pace—no deviations in speed. His hind feet should follow in the tracks of his front. He should be equally soft and responsive in either direction.
KEY SKILL: Teach your horse to move laterally, off your leg. Let’s review that before we move on. Be sure you can move him out onto a bigger circle by pulling your outside rein way out while keeping his nose tipped to the inside and keeping his body on the arc of that circle. He’ll have to bend and move laterally off your leg (this is no easy feat so practice it at all the gaits before moving on). I’ll cover more of the “how too’s” in my next article.
Here’s a question that you may have heard before: If you had to pick between receiving $1,000,000 today or the value of $0.01 doubled every day for 30 days, which would you pick?
I’ve heard this question before, but recently a mentor of mine who worked in finance challenged me to prove the benefits of compounding interest to myself.
Doing it took a few minutes, but it provided some valuable insights.
Here are the calculations (my insights below): As of Day 10, the doubling penny is worth only $5.12.
As of Day 20, the penny is worth approximately $5,000. At this point choosing that doubling penny still seems like a poor choice.
On Day 27, which is 3 days before the 30 days ends, the penny is worth approximately $670,000. Now, that’s a lot of money for that penny to have turned into but still a lot less than $1,000,000.
But on Day 28 is the first time the doubling penny’s value exceeds $1,000,000. At that point, the penny is worth approximately $1,300,000. Until 2 days before the deadline, that penny seemed like a bad investment.
As of Day 30, that doubling penny is worth an incredible $5,368,709.12.
Approximately $4,700,000 of that growth occurred between days 28 through 30.
So, what’s my point?
My point is all of us strive every day towards pursuits that we have and we love (our horses and our riding), and sometimes it feels like we’re not making progress, especially during the tough times when progress is slow and success is elusive.
The reality is that the doubled efforts will eventually add up to huge gains. Sometimes, it just takes those few extra days for those gains to exponentially increase! So, rise to the challenge and persevere through the times when it seems like you’re not gaining with your horse and you’ll be rewarded when you least expect! Remember slow and steady wins the race and as Greg Ward used to say, “If you improve your horse 1% a day, in 100 days, your horse will be 100% better!” Now that’s doable and well worth striving for!
I hope that you find some inspiration in that like I did. Be well. Be safe.
The summer show season is upon us! And while it brings longer days and time for more shows, it also brings warmer weather and its own set of challenges for you and your horses.
Any animal expected to perform at its top level should be regularly evaluated by a veterinarian during show season. This will allow you to stay ahead of any impending lameness issues which could become problematic under the different training and footing conditions at a show. Hot weather can present additional risks to the horse which you can help prevent with your trainer and veterinarian ahead of time. The two most common clinical problems we see at summer horse shows are colic and shipping fever.
Colic, which is described as the outward clinical symptoms due to abdominal pain, can be caused by many different factors including the following three common culprits: dehydration, a change in diet, and stress. Since the show environment often exacerbates these factors, particularly in the summer, it is common to see colic at horse shows. Even in a perfect management scheme, horses can still experience colic. Although these are quite variable, many episodes of colic are started by the three factors listed above and then progress to something more severe. There are several key steps you can take to mitigate these factors and decrease the odds of your horse experiencing colic this summer.
Dehydration is one of the key factors that lead to colic. Making sure your horse is well hydrated before hauling and during the trip so that there is less “catching up” to do upon arrival is one way you can stay ahead of dehydration. This can be easier said than done as some horses don’t drink very well while traveling. You can encourage a horse to drink by adding a daily electrolyte powder supplement in their feed 3-5 days before leaving and continuing through the show and trip home. Alternatively, you can administer an electrolyte paste starting 2-3 days before leaving and continuing daily. A salt lick in the stall or feed trough also helps keep the horse drinking well year-round. Be sure to offer water at each stop along the way and when the horse arrives. Some horses do not like the taste of new water at different venues, and you might choose to offer water mixed with apple juice or Gatorade to help encourage them to drink better. If you do this, always make sure to hang a second bucket of plain water as not all horses like flavored water.
Another common way horses colic is an abrupt change in diet. Most of us travel with enough of their own feed to last throughout the show for the shorter ones, but since many shows are quite long, it is often impractical to haul enough. So, sometimes you will have to change the hay portion of your horse’s diet at shows. Something as common as a slight change in hay can stress a horse’s delicate GI tract which can lead to colic. However, if the transition to the new hay is done slowly, the GI tract usually has time to adjust to the new hay and colic can be prevented. In order to ease the transition, start folding the new hay in slowly with the hay brought along on the trip so the change is less abrupt.
Stress manifests itself in different ways in horses, and gastric ulcers is a very common symptom of stress. Gastroprotectants are particularly useful in show horses since a large percentage of them have at least a minor amount of gastric upset during hauling and showing. Omeprazole, found in Gastrogard and Ulcergard, is made up of proton pump blockers that reduce the production of acid in the stomach. This is doubly effective as it heals ulcers that are already present and helps prevent new ones from forming. Pump blockers must be started three days before hauling since they are absorbed in the small intestine and work through the bloodstream.
The stress of hauling can also manifest in another way, which brings us to our other most common clinical problem seen at shows: shipping fever. Shipping fever is a condition where horses commonly develop a fever after hauling a long distance or upon arrival in a new environment. The two main reasons for this are bacterial pneumonia from airborne debris and particulate matter and exposure to a viral pneumonia agent such as the equine herpes virus or equine influenza. Horses have a long trachea, and the cilia that helps them clear mucous and debris from their lungs and airway is not very efficient. They really need the ability to lower their head to help clear their airway. Long trailer rides with their heads tied up make this difficult. Compounding this issue is dry bedding containing urine or manure and hay that swirls around in the trailer and becomes inhaled as well as drier dustier conditions during the summer at show grounds. If some of this dust contains bacteria and settles in the lungs without being cleared out, it can set up an infection. Likewise, exposure to viral agents in new environments around new horses can lead to infection. This pneumonia leads to fever and systemic illness, loss of appetite, depression, increased respiratory rate, and sometimes coughing. Since the fever is often the first sign, this condition has been dubbed “shipping fever”.
It is a good idea to check temperatures upon arrival and call a veterinarian to treat early if any abnormality exists. If the pneumonia is not caught and treated early, it can lead to a very serious and difficult to treat condition called pleuropneumonia which is an infection outside the lungs but inside the chest cavity. In most of those cases the horse will not get to show, they will require hospitalization and longer term treatment, and will have to stay after the show until they are healthy enough to haul home.
Prevention strategies for bacterial pneumonia shipping fever include decreasing exposure to dust by using larger shavings as bedding, wetting hay, allowing horses to lower their head while hauling, and feeding on the ground when possible. Immune stimulants, discussed later, can also help. The chances of viral pneumonia can also be decreased by adequate vaccination. It can be helpful to have your horses vaccinated for influenza and rhino (equine herpes virus) within the 6 months prior to showing (they have to be given at least twice yearly requiring an initial vaccine and then a booster to achieve adequate systemic immunity.) Also, the intranasal product called Flu-Avert can be effective. It activates a local nasal immunity to these pathogens almost immediately and for a short-term period. Immune stimulants given as a series at least a week prior to hauling have been effective at decreasing illness. Your veterinarian can advise to the appropriate product based on your horse and availability. Products like Eq-Stim and Zylexis are given as a series of shots to help boost the immunity of the horse and make them more effective at fighting off infection.
Using a few simple strategies outlined above such as keeping your horse well-hydrated, easing the transition to new hay, modifying your hauling techniques, and administering some preventative gastroprotectant, vaccination, and immunostimulation strategies prior to hauling can help keep your horse healthier at shows, especially during the summer. It’s a lot easier and less expensive to keep your horse from getting sick than to treat him if he does.
Back in April of 2021, I wrote an article on sworls/whorls/swirls. I find it fascinating and many times a good predicter of certain equine characteristics and disposition. I recently saw an article in Western Horseman that had a few new ones on me, so see what you think. If you have photos of a horse with some of the more bizarre sworls, please send them to us and be sure to weigh in on what you notice about your horse and its sworls.
Interestingly, the brain and hair are created at the same time, from the same embryonic layer, so there appears to be some science in the correlation of the two as it relates to fear response and trainability.
Several very famous equine folks have studied this (Doug Carpenter, Temple Grandin, and Linda Tellington Jones to name a few).
Sworls can be clockwise or counterclockwise on their face, chest, legs, back, neck, poll, stomach and flank. Has anyone noticed a difference in the horse who has sworls that go counterclockwise?
The normal place for a forehead sworl is directly between the eyes. If it is higher, they can be busy minded and lower can mean more complacent. See below how to guage if your horse’s is high, low or just in the middle.
The tighter the hair is coiled, the more focused their mind will be.
Double or triple whorls on the head or neck can indicate multiple personalities. Boy, have I seen that one be true!
A girth whorl can indicate a horse who’s cinchy. I’ve seen that one bear out also.
Here are a few I’d never heard before: a sworl on the check can be a bad omen for debt or ruin!
Mules often have sworls on their ears, a sign of focused energy.
Horses with no poll whorls don’t flex vertically very easily. I have seen horses with whorls half way down their neck that didn’t break at the poll but instead tried to break furth down their neck and also when they’ve had one on only one side of their neck, be less supple in that direction.
A horse will carry it’s head higher if it has a sworl under it’s throatlatch.
A centered chest whorl was thought to indicate prosperity. (I’m not sure if that means for the horse or the owner though!)
A back whorl can indicate a bucker.
If a horse has front leg whorls on the back or the side of them, he can be shorterstrided.
A tail whorl can indicate a horse who will wring it’s tail.
We’d love to hear your observations and see pictures of any out of the ordinary whorls you’ve seen!
It seems like after every major event, the topic of excessive herd help comes up. It was covered really well in Dec at the NRCHA Judge’s Seminar, so I thought before the Celebration of Champions, I’d recap what is allowed to do without consequence to the exhibitor vs what will result in a reduction of their score.
The herd holder’s duty is to contain the herd giving the cutter the opportunity to demonstrate their horse’s ability to cut a cow cleanly with little or no disturbance to the herd and to drive the cow up out of the herd to the middle of the working area. They then should make sure all the cattle are back in the herd and move to the side where they can control the herd yet not distract from the run.
Any excessive action by the herd holder can result in a reduction of the score for that run. For instance, if the action of the herd holder “saves” the contestant from incurring a major penalty (such as losing a cow or getting a back fence), or the herd holder cuts down the width of the pen, or in fresh cattle, drives the herd out for the cutter, a penalty may be applied.
Here are a few examples of what can and can’t be done without penalty.
If the exhibitor is ready to get off, but the cow won’t turn away 1) as the cow approaches the side of the arena and the exhibitor is in position, the herd holder can move up and turn the cow away without penalty. However, if the exhibitor is behind and has lost control, and the herd holder turns the cow away thus saving the exhibitor from losing the cow, a penalty should be applied.
If the exhibitor loses control while making a cut and the herd holder prevents the cow from being lost, a penalty should be applied.
After the cut has been made, if the herd holder doesn’t move over to the wall causing the cow being worked to be influenced by his presence, a penalty may be applied
If the herd holder is sitting in the corner as the cow approaches the corner, the herd holder moves slightly, no penalty. If he comes out of the corner and obviously attempts to stop or turn the cow, the run content should be reduced.
The general rule of thumb is when a major penalty is saved by the action of the herd holder, the judge can deduct up to ½ the value of the penalty that was going to be incurred. So, for a back fence, it would result in a 1.5 point deduction. For a loss, it would be 2.5 points. This is taken over on the far-right side of the judge’s card and is deducted from that particular cow’s score, not subtracted at the end like a back fence or a loss would be.
All that said, the job of the herd holder is to help the exhibitor, and we’d all rather lose 2.5 points instead of 5 points. The key is to stay in the position of control and if you’re not, don’t be surprised if you see an excessive herd help penalty on your card.
A thoughtful horse trainer understands how horses think and prepares them thoroughly to be able to “know the answer before you ask the question”.
This was highlighted on my recent trip to Australia. There was a particularly good rider with a very nice horse who had never been able to do flying changes on him. I explained to her how a horse has to be able to move their front end separate from their back end, in essence rub their tummy while patting their head, to change leads correctly. I asked her to do a few simple exercises that help get a horse really good at that. For those of you that took Barb’s and my Lead Changing webinar a couple of months ago, you should be familiar with those! For those of you who missed it, it’s still available though it won’t be live but it’s all there (you can access it here: Unlocking Lead Changes). Anyway, I’ve always been a firm believer in educating my horses by teaching them how to move all their body parts the way they’ll need to to perform a maneuver.
Then, I teach them any corrections that I might use if they need some extra reinforcement. All of this before I even think about asking for the maneuver. This way they know how to “answer/respond” correctly to my cues before I ever ask. They are planning to say “yes”, because they already know how. They’re like a kid in school who is well prepared and when the teacher asks the question, can hardly wait to volunteer the answer.
This method has never failed me, and I really feel like it helps to develop a confident horse who always knows that no matter what is asked, there is a correct answer followed immediately by reward.
Back to my story though. We prepared this horse thoroughly with lateral moves, good lead departures, counter cantering, collection etc, then put it all together and presto! We had several pretty flawless lead changes! It was seamless, stress free and just old-fashion gimmick-free, good, schooling.
I encourage all of you to harken back to your school days and remember what it was like to be thoroughly prepared and confident vs full of dread and anxiety when you weren’t. Which way helped you learn better? Were those the teachers that you liked better and felt like they had your back and made you want to try harder for them? Me too! I believe horses are no different to us in that regard.
This week I wanted to give a big shout out to one of the finest horsemen, great showman, kind and resilient, yet tougher than nails, and cowboy extraordinaire. If you’ve never met Doug Williamson, just go right up and introduce yourself! He’s one of the most friendly and approachable trainers in the NRCHA. I could on and on, but no one could say it better than Lindsey Stornetta of Platinum Performance. Please take a minute to read this article about him and then make it a point to meet him. You’ll be glad you did!
It’s blanketing time of year again! Where did summer go??
There are a lot of things to consider when it comes to blankets. Here are a few to ensure your horse stays warm and comfortable:
1- Is your horse turned out or kept in a barn? If he’s turned out, you’ll need a more durable canvas blanket especially if he is out with his buddies. It should also be waterproof as horses given their choice of being in or out, normally choose out, even if the weather is terrible. Also, whether they are in or out, pay attention to the temperature. If they sweat under a blanket, not only does the salt take a toll on their coat, but a damp blanket from sweat as the evening cools, can cause them to get chilled. . If you have a high denier count and it’s waterproof, it probably won’t breathe well so be sure to take it off during warm days.
2- If you have stickers or even shavings, a fleece lined blanket can be literally a pain as everything will embed itself into the fleece. It might be better to go with a canvas or nylon lining, though “loft” can help trap warm air and keep them more comfortable.
3- A good fitting blanket is very important. Don’t just use a previous horse’s blanket who was about the same size. If it’s too big, it’ll ride too far back and rub the horses withers on top, or hang way low on their chest in front. If it’s too small, they’ll rub the hair off in front of their shoulders. Most well known blanket manufacturers use a good cut so their blankets fit most horses well. My experience with cheaper blankets was usually a poor fit in the front.
4- Do you want to be able to take it off over their head and be able to adjust it in the front? That’s a nice option, just be sure to get one that has an easy to adjust front, so after a few weeks, it isn’t welded shut.
5- Are you going to use a hood for the winter? If so, be sure your blanket has 3 D-rings to attach it to or it’ll wiggle around all the time and probably rub their mane out.
6- Layers- I always preferred a sheet during the day and a blanket over the top of that at night. It cut down on chore time and kept them comfortable at most temperatures.
7- Do you use lights? This might need to be addressed in its own article, but keep in mind that when you keep a horse under lights their hair stays nice and slick, so they no longer can keep themselves warm enough. The same goes for horses that have been clipped. The more hair removed, the more blanket fill to consider using to compensate.
8- Forage – If the temperatures drop below the horse’s 41-degree thermoneutral zone, they will be using more energy to stay warm. This means, their normal calorie intake may not be enough and extra forage can help them maintain their body temperature. Plus, eating and digesting food creates heat.
9- Acclimation – Have you recently moved from the previous winter? Maybe you’ve moved someplace colder than the prior year and your horse needs to adapt to its new environment. A blanket can help them acclimate to the new climate.
10- And let’s not forget “sleezies”. They’re great, except for the poor folks who have to put them on and take the off! There’s a pretty good learning curve with sleezies.
Signs Your Horse is Too Hot
· Sweating – this can be under the blanket, along the neck, or behind the ears
· Heavy breathing
· Change in behavior – could be more lethargic or restless
· Rubbing the blanket to try and remove it
Signs Your Horse is Too Cold
· Shivering
· Tucked up tail to try and keep warm
· Seeking shelter or huddling up with other horses
· Change in behavior like pacing to try and warm-up
· Weight Loss – typically a more long-term sign that they’re too cold
A quick trick to check if your horse is comfortable is to place your hand under their blanket near their withers. Does it feel cool or too warm? If so, you can adjust your blanketing needs accordingly.
Those are my basic considerations when it comes to blanketing. It’s so nice when a horse doesn’t get too shaggy in the winter. That way when you ride, they don’t get so hot and dry off much quicker. However, if that’s not a consideration, letting them go “commando” is the easiest option. I noticed that the unblanketed horses always slicked off quicker in the spring.
I was looking back on some past articles that Bill Enk (NRCHA Director of Judges and teller of great stories) has written for the NRCHA magazine and saw this. It’s so well written about the importance of reading a cow, that I thought I’d share it.
From the Judge’s Chair May 2022
Bill Enk on reading a cow
Everyone has their strengths and weakness when it comes to showing reined cow horses. Reading a cow accurately is a must. Sometimes luck is involved by drawing a perfect cow, but when that doesn’t happen, the showman that reads the cow the best has a definite advantage.
In the herd work, most people pick the cattle they want to work before they walk down to the herd. They have watched the cattle when the herd was settled and usually watch each rider before them cut so they know which cattle have been used and which are still fresh. Having a good idea about the behavior of the cattle to be cut goes a long way toward earning a good score.
Cutting in the center of the pen and staying even on both sides of a cow are a must for credit to be earned. How far to go by the cow to control and turn him is part of reading a cow accurately. Go too far, you might lose working advantage: don’t go far enough, the cow might not set up and turn, causing your help or the fence to turn him- no credit there.
The exhibitors that read the cow best know when they can play offense and when to play defense. If the cow is aggressively trying to get back to the herd, it’s time to be on the defensive. If the animal lets you control him in the middle of the pen, it’s time to play offense.
When the cow enters the arena during the cow work, the experienced showman starts sizing up the animal immediately. Some cattle head better than others, some are numb and won’t head at all, and some are a combination of both. The idea while boxing is to get on both sides of the cow to stop and turn it so when you get to the head on the fence, the animal will honor your horse and turn.
How long the animal is boxed has a lot to do with how the rest of the fence work plays out. Boxing too long takes too much juice out of the cow and the finish of the run is weakened. If you don’t box enough on an active animal, you risk not being able to catch and turn it on the fence and have a tough time finishing in control on the circles.
The #1 priority when judging the cow work is: Did the horse have position and control during the entire work? If they did, and had at least an average degree of difficulty, they should earn a good score. Reading the cow accurately allows the exhibitor to be consistent throughout the work and finish strong. Remember, using good judgement on a cow always gives you a fighting chance.
